This is as much a nitpick with Zvi’s article as with this one, but french food just seems hard to find because its easy to misidentify. french technique is the bedrock of american food—both as the history of fine dining(/haute cuisine) routes directly through french chefs, restaurants, systems, and techniques and as french food has been repurposed into american food. Some examples: mayonnaise, the delicate, challenging-to-make emulsion of flavored fats and vinegars,controversially a mother sauce* becomes ‘mayo’ the white stuff that goes on sandwiches; charcuterie becomes the deli isle; boeuf bourguignon becomes stew.
so in your example you can probably (haven’t researched the restaurant, but from general knowledge as a processional chef) count at least the “new american” restaurant as french as “new american” is the (new(ish)) American take on a fine dining tradition that comes from france. ‘Chef’ just means ‘chief’ in french (like the military rank or the man in charge) and comes from the brigade system (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigade_de_cuisine)
I feel like giving the French credit for stew is a stretch even stretchier than giving them credit for thinly slicing meat.
Thank god for the French inventing stew, I say, so that the British, Spanish, Italians, Greeks, Germans, Russians, West Africans, North Africans, Northeast Native Americans, Aztecs, Mayans, Persians, Pakistanis, South Indians, Central Asians and Chinese could learn how to put ingredients in a pot and boil them.
One may also add that ‘bœuf bourguignon’ literally translates as ‘Burgundy beef’, for the very good reason that it is cooked in red wine. That’s not exactly ‘inventing stew’, although it tastes great
I don’t think it’s true that the origins of mayonnaise have anything to do with mother sauces. Wikipedia seems to agree. (It also doesn’t seem to be French in origin.)
It seems to be of French origin. The name is French and the French cuisine adopted first. The main hypothesis for its apparition is that Richelieu’s cook invented it out of lack of alternative ingredients while occupying the city of Mahon in Spain.
Source: same as you.
In 1750, Francesc Roger Gomila, a Valencian friar, published a recipe for a sauce similar to mayonnaise in Art de la Cuina (‘The Art of Cooking’). He calls the sauce aioli bo.[14] If he does not describe precisely the recipe—suggesting that it was known by everyone on the island—the way it is used, the preparations for which it is used as a base and the dishes with which it is associated are most often inconceivable with an aioli. Earlier recipes of similar emulsified sauces, usually containing garlic, appear in a number of Spanish recipe books dating all the way back to the 14th century Llibre de Sent Soví, where it is called all-i-oli, literally ‘garlic and oil’ in Catalan.[15][16] This sauce had clearly spread throughout the Crown of Aragon, for Juan de Altamiras gives a recipe for it in his celebrated 1745 recipe book Nuevo Arte de Cocina (‘New Art of Cooking’).[17]
I accept that mayonaise is an evolution of allioli (but maintain that the historical fact is that its american ubiquity routes through french chefs).
Wikipedia also doesn’t say that it’s not a mother sauce, if you scroll down you’ll find this: “Auguste Escoffier wrote that mayonnaise was a French mother sauce of cold sauces,[27] like ’espagnole or velouté. “ I originally wrote “controversially a mother sauce” because the most common listing of mother sauces on the internet is ~wrong- The youtube video i linked includes primary source scholarship on the topic that has begun to update the general understanding in the direction that the quote supports.
Mayonnaise is an evolution of aillioli, but not the same thing: it doesn’t have garlic. In fact, southern France also has aioli, with garlic, and these two things are separate.
In addition, in the context of cooking, chef means “cook”, and it’s common to call the cook “chef”, even if it’s your friend who’s making a barbecue. It has positive connotations, implying that the cook is skilled.
This is as much a nitpick with Zvi’s article as with this one, but french food just seems hard to find because its easy to misidentify. french technique is the bedrock of american food—both as the history of fine dining(/haute cuisine) routes directly through french chefs, restaurants, systems, and techniques and as french food has been repurposed into american food.
Some examples: mayonnaise, the delicate, challenging-to-make emulsion of flavored fats and vinegars,controversially a mother sauce* becomes ‘mayo’ the white stuff that goes on sandwiches; charcuterie becomes the deli isle; boeuf bourguignon becomes stew.
so in your example you can probably (haven’t researched the restaurant, but from general knowledge as a processional chef) count at least the “new american” restaurant as french as “new american” is the (new(ish)) American take on a fine dining tradition that comes from france. ‘Chef’ just means ‘chief’ in french (like the military rank or the man in charge) and comes from the brigade system (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brigade_de_cuisine)
((https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_mother_sauces) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcDk-JcAnOw )
I feel like giving the French credit for stew is a stretch even stretchier than giving them credit for thinly slicing meat.
Thank god for the French inventing stew, I say, so that the British, Spanish, Italians, Greeks, Germans, Russians, West Africans, North Africans, Northeast Native Americans, Aztecs, Mayans, Persians, Pakistanis, South Indians, Central Asians and Chinese could learn how to put ingredients in a pot and boil them.
One may also add that ‘bœuf bourguignon’ literally translates as ‘Burgundy beef’, for the very good reason that it is cooked in red wine. That’s not exactly ‘inventing stew’, although it tastes great
I don’t think it’s true that the origins of mayonnaise have anything to do with mother sauces. Wikipedia seems to agree. (It also doesn’t seem to be French in origin.)
It seems to be of French origin. The name is French and the French cuisine adopted first. The main hypothesis for its apparition is that Richelieu’s cook invented it out of lack of alternative ingredients while occupying the city of Mahon in Spain. Source: same as you.
It seems you didn’t read very closely:
(Plus the part about remoulade, etc.)
Yes, it seems I read too fast.
I accept that mayonaise is an evolution of allioli (but maintain that the historical fact is that its american ubiquity routes through french chefs).
Wikipedia also doesn’t say that it’s not a mother sauce, if you scroll down you’ll find this:
“Auguste Escoffier wrote that mayonnaise was a French mother sauce of cold sauces,[27] like ’espagnole or velouté. “
I originally wrote “controversially a mother sauce” because the most common listing of mother sauces on the internet is ~wrong- The youtube video i linked includes primary source scholarship on the topic that has begun to update the general understanding in the direction that the quote supports.
Mayonnaise is an evolution of aillioli, but not the same thing: it doesn’t have garlic. In fact, southern France also has aioli, with garlic, and these two things are separate.
In addition, in the context of cooking, chef means “cook”, and it’s common to call the cook “chef”, even if it’s your friend who’s making a barbecue. It has positive connotations, implying that the cook is skilled.